Vintage clothing for chronically ill and special needs individuals

Before jumping into the heart of today's post, I want to take a moment and preface this topic somewhat by briefly sharing some of my personal experiences on this subject with all of you.

A decade ago, mere weeks after my 18th birthday, I became extremely ill very rapidly with a series of severe, often debilitating chronic medical conditions. As the years went on, other additional medical issues appeared, too, bringing the current total to over a dozen different chronic conditions.

As one might expect, this altered the course of my life drastically, yet I've always been a "glass half full kind of gal" and have striven to consistently retain as much of who I was before becoming sick, while at the same time accepting life as it gets thrown at me, and trying to make the best of every situation.

In 2004 I founded (and continue to run) a leading patient-to-patient website called IC Advice, which is dedicated to helping those who share one of my conditions (interstitial cystitis), for which I've written many medical articles, recipes, and other types of useful literature.

A few years ago (before my own health declined further and I had to step back from this particular role) I also ran a chronic illness support group, speaking to and peer counselling hundreds of people whose lives had also been affected by ongoing health problems.

Though there are bright moments and promises of hope when dealing with the subject of chronic illness, the cold, hard truth is that it often not the most cheerful of subjects, and there is nothing Pollyanna about coping, struggling, and living day in and day out with the permanent shadow of health issues tagging along with you through every breath and step you take.

Whether online or in person, one thing that I have always enjoyed however is helping others find ways - even seemingly tiny, simple ways - in which to bring any possible degree of ease, help, and control back into one or more areas of their lives.

For many (though certainly not all, it truly varies depending on what medical issues a person is contending with) with chronic health problems, what we choose to wear can have a notable impact on how our bodies feel and where our pain levels are at.

While it is understandably beyond the scope of one blog post to discuss and address all of the possible considerations that need to be made when it comes to the topic of clothing that works well for people with medical/special needs, I have tried to cover general topics within this article which I hope will apply to a broad range of individuals and their own unique circumstances.

Though the age old saying "it hurts to be beautiful" can indeed ring true sometimes, for those who are already in constant pain and/or have limited mobility, vision problems, impaired motor skills, or any other issue that affects their ability to toss on whatever they want to wear in the morning without giving it a second though, getting dressed (and then wearing clothing for a part, or all of, the day) can already be a vexing and/or painful situation.

Some of the most common points that arise when trying to find clothing that accommodates medical and special needs are as follows:

-Ease of wear: How easy or difficult is it to put on, and take off, a garment. Will assistance be needed or can one dress themselves on their own?

-Garment weight: For those with many different conditions ranging from fibromyalgia to neuralgia, something as seemingly simple as the weight of an item of clothing (and/or whole outfit) can be more than enough to elevate their levels of discomfort.

-Garment strictness: How tight or loose is an item of clothing? In some cases, excess fabric can be a negative (such as if you're using certain types of mobility devices), yet in others tight clothing (much as with garment weight) can aggravate certain health problems (for many with gastrointestinal problems - and believe me when I say I speak from experience here - tight waistbands, for example, can be extremely uncomfortable and can even increase our symptoms sometimes).

-Fabric/materials used: It is not uncommon for those with medical/special needs to have highly sensitive skin and/or to be more acutely aware of the textures and temperatures against their skin. Generally speaking, natural, breathable fabrics such as cotton, wool (if not allergic/sensitive), silk, and bamboo are the first types of fabrics you my want to reach for, followed by soft (to-the-touch) manmade materials and natural/manmade blends (such as poly-cotton).

-Fastenings: Whether buttons, snaps, hooks, zippers, ties, shoe laces, or buckles, fastenings can really pose a problem for those with certain medical issues. Garments (and shoes) that can easily be slipped, comfortably wrap tied, or fastened with velcro can be much easier to get on and off.

-Alterations: Almost all of us, if we want out clothing to fit as best as possibly can, will have one or more garments altered over the course of our lifetime. This is not only normal, but highly recommended, if you want to look your most presentable. However some medical conditions and situations require altering/tailoring that goes beyond merely hemming a skirt or moving the buttons on a blazer.

Everything from the use of a wheelchair to an ostomy pouching system, a tracheotomy to the loss of one or more limbs can significantly impact a person's ability to comfortably wear an item of clothing right off the rack. When buying clothing that will require alteration, try to find pieces with enough fabric allowance to permit for the tailoring required.

-Is seated/laying down dressing required: Much as with ease of wear, ease of putting on and taking off a garment can be impacted by the position in which a person needs to be in order to get dressed. Though stockings might be easy for some people to put on while sitting down, imagine trying to do up a row of buttons running down the back of a dress while you were sitting or laying down. Not the simplest of tasks, let me assure you!

Items of clothing that can easily be slipped or fastened on (without pinching, tugging, or excessively rubbing the skin) while in various positions are often the best way to go if you know that you standing to dress is not going to be possible.

-Sizing: When we think of the term "clothing size" we often think about the tiny number printed on a garment's tag, however sizing goes beyond merely a number and can extend to the amount of fabric that a garment contains and how well it covers an individual.

Someone who's on their feet most of the day might think nothing of wearing a cropped sweater that just barely touches their waistband, however if you're going to be sitting, laying down, and/or transferred between positions throughout the day, you'll likely want a garment that covers your skin and ensures your dignity is maintained at all times.

In such cases, clothing that is slightly longer (think hip length blouses/shirts instead of waist length ones and pants/skirts/dresses with longer hems may be the way to go.

-Laundering required: As someone with super sensitive skin, I can tell you that I almost never buy garments (be they vintage or modern) that require dry cleaning (the chemicals used by many drycleaners do not agree with me). Whenever possible, I try to buy clothing that can be put in the washer and dryer (or, hung to dry after washing).

If hand washing if hard or impossible for whatever reason (i.e., arthritic hands/wrists), again, you may want to strive for a closet full of clothing that you can confidently clean in the washing machine.

-Price: While the cost of a garment is usually a deciding factor for all but those with the deepest pockets, it would be naive to skirt around the fact that people who contend with chronic health problems or have special medical needs sometimes live off of a reduced/lower incomes. Some struggle to make the barest of ends meet on a disability or pension income, while others may have had to take a cut in pay due to scaling back their hours at work (to try to accommodate their health) or to switch jobs/careers entirely.

As such, it's just good old-fashioned common sense to try and make your clothing dollars stretch as far as possible in most situations. This doesn't necessary mean buying the cheapest items of clothing by any means though, as it is often wiser to invest a little more (when possible) in a better quality garment that stands to last considerably longer, and give you more value in the long run for your money, than a cheaper version of the same piece.

-Minimizing frustration: No one wants to feel like they are unable to do a seemingly easy task. Feeling powerless in the face of your closet is a truly disheartening sensation and one that, ideally, none of us should ever have to face. The truth however is that medical problems/special needs can often greatly hinder our ability to wear certain cuts and styles of clothing any longer.

Instead of throwing in the towel however and resorting to a life of shapeless, style-less garments, first pinpoint where your difficulties with getting dressed lie and see if there are clothing options out there that will allow you to continue dressing in a way that makes you - and your health concerns - happy.

The points above apply to all clothing in general, whether it's vintage, reproduction, vintage inspired, vintage appropriate, or modern. As someone who's range of motion, pain levels, and mobility are affected by my health problems every day, I can tell you that is possible to have a predominately vintage wardrobe that accommodates my medical needs, yet which from the outside does not look different from most other (vintage clothing loving) people's closets.

While some days - the days you're much more likely to see photographs of me on - I'm able to get dressed on my own, style my hair, do my make-up and venture out into public, there are many, many more days for which such things are not possible.

Whether I'm having a rare "good day", availing of my wheelchair for an outing, am at home tucked up on the couch doing blog post research, or on bed rest, I've learned that there are garments that work really well for me in a variety of situations. They do so because they're stylish, comfortable, made of skin-friendly materials, and because I know they're easy to wash and wear time and time again.

There is an age old quandary of comfort vs style that persist throughout the fashion world. However, it is a something of a misconception to think that comfort and style are two entirely separate entities. Garments such as sweat pants and slouchy sweaters may spring to mind when you think of comfortable clothing, but they are absolutely, by no means, the only kinds of comfy clothing out there.

If you buy pieces that fit well from the get go (or that you have tailored to fit properly), which take the points above into consideration, and which you feel happy and confident when wearing, finding comfortable clothing is often possible.

With the points outlined above in mind, and drawing on my own personal experience and well as many discussions over the years with fellow chronic illness/special needs people on this topic, I'm delighted to share ten of my favourite vintage/vintage appropriate wardrobe staples with you.

Again, please bear in mind that each individual who needs to adapt how they dress based on their health/disabilities/special needs, will differ in what they're able to wear. These pieces are ones amongst which I think most people should be able to find a few options or at least use these garments as an inspirational jumping off point for others that will better suit their own circumstances.

 

~ Cardigan sweaters ~

{1950s cream wool buttonless cardigan with muted green floral embroidery; size large. Available for $30.00 CND from etsy seller Ma Ptite Chouette.}

Perhaps more than any other category of clothing in my whole wardrobe, my cardigan collection gets the most play. Being on the petite side (I'm 5'2"), longer/boxier cardigans can overwhelm my shape, so I tend to veer towards one that are relatively fitted, but not quite skin-tight (for the sake of comfort). Being allergic to wool, I like to opt for cotton cardis, as well as ones that are made from cotton blends and certain synthetic fabrics, such as rayon. Though I do button them up sometimes, more often I wear my cardigans open over a blouse, top, or dress.

Not only do they instantly add a layer of interest to an outfit, but they have the perk of being both timelessly lovely and perfect for keeping warm on cooler days and when the AC is blasting come summertime. I genuinely believe that there is a cardigan out there that can work for almost everyone on the planet, no matter what conditions you're accommodating.

~ Shirtwaist dresses ~

 

{1950s Key Windsor tan cotton shirtwaist dress; 38" bust/29.5" waist. Available for $45.00 from etsy seller JanesVintage.}

Another absolute closet workhorse for me is shirtwaist dresses. Such garments (so long as you buy them in your size) often offer generous amounts of fabric through the bust area, tapper at the waist (which is sometimes elasticized), and then flare out into a fuller skirt at the bottom.

As their name implies, many shirtwaist dresses (also know as "shirt dresses") do have one or more buttons running up the front,. However, depending on the garment, if buttons are a concern, you may be able to swap them out and/or sew up the button holes (thus turning the buttons into purely decorative elements), and run a line of velcro up the front to easily keep the dress closed (while making it much more comfortable to get on and off).

Shirtwaist dresses were very popular (especially as daywear) during the 1950s, though their history dates further back, with the name originally referring to (women's) blouses that were constructed like (men's) shirts. Shirtwaist dresses came back into vogue during the 1980s, with many styles produced then mimicking or taking style cues from their earlier mid-century predecessors.

Luckily for fans of this classic type of frock, shirtwaist dresses are generally easy to come by and are available in a broad range of colours and fabrics. To date etsy has yielded the biggest cache of vintage shirtwaist dresses for me, followed in second place by eBay.

~ Elastic waist/slip on skirts ~ 

{Aqua and white polka dot Fro-Yo Enjoyment elastic waist skirt, in sizes S-L. $54.99 from ModCloth.com.}

Lest you conjure up images of the bottom half of a painfully matronly skirt suit, let me redirect your thoughts to ones of stylish 1940s and 50s skirts in cuts as varied as pencil to poodle, high waisted to Dior worthy circle. Over the years, many skirts have been produced which had elastic waists or which could be slipped on and done up with just one fastener, (often) thanks to the material they were being made from having a degree of stretch to it.

Slip-on skirts often allow one to bypass contending with zippers, rows of buttons, or hook and eye fasteners and yet can (and do!) look every bit as lovely as those which stay put thanks to such items. They can be dressed up or down, as your heart desires, and are often marvelous options for work and slightly more formal wear.

 

~ Silk (or similar material) scarves ~

{1940s/50s pink and aqua rolled edge, floral print silk scarf; 28" square. Available for $22.50 from etsy seller Trunk Gypsies.}

Not only are they lightweight, gorgeously smooth on the skin, and available in a truly countless array of colours and patterns, but silk scarves can easily be one of the most versatile items in your wardrobe.

You can wear them around your neck, draped over your shoulders, as a belt (if they're long enough), tied to a purse handle as a stylish decoration, around your wrist as a bracelet, and put to use in lots of different ways on your head (from 1940s inspired Rosie style headscarves to looped around a youthful 50s inspired ponytail) - to name but a few ways.

~ Shrugs and bolero jackets ~

{Black 3/4 sleeve acrylic/rayon/spandex blend shrug cover-up, in sizs S/M, M/L, and L/XL. $32.00 from Red Dress Shoppe.}

Similar in some ways to a cardigan in the sense that they're often fitted, cropped lightweight toppers, shrugs and bolero jackets are pieces that I reach for time and time again. Many are free of buttons/zippers/fasteners, made from comfortable materials, and are instantly evocative of the mid-twentieth century. I have knit shrugs in various neutral hues (black, navy, grey, white) and am cultivating a budding bolero jacket collection, the star of which so far is a chipper tomato red number from the late 50s or very early 60s.

These wardrobe gems are perfect for adding a layer of warmth and style to many looks, and are often all it takes to elevate a day ensemble to a more night time appropriate outfit. If you're not too keen on showing your upper arms either, they (along with cardigans) are amongst the best ways to easily wear strapless/short sleeve dresses without feeling conscious about exposing your bare skin.

~ Overalls/dungarees ~

{Custom made 1940s style factory girl overalls; sizing to order. Available for $96.00 from etsy seller Time Machine Vintage.}

Even though I usually tend to sport skirts and dresses, there are times when life is best suited to wearing pants. If the occasion is a more causal natured one, I love reaching for a pair of reproduction overalls (dungarees).

Free of a tight waistband (usually) - which is especially nice if you're sitting or reclining for longer periods of time - this classic farmer's garment offers plenty of coverage, the ease and durability of denim (or another sturdy fabric such as twill), plus a timelessly fun style that serves us vintage loving gals so well.

~ Camisoles ~

{1950s/60s nylon and lace camisole with embroidery; approximate size 34/36 C bust. Available for $34.99 from etsy seller Jewels4Pandas.}

While I've never been one to wear them as a garment all on their own (aka, as a top unto themselves), I don camisoles more days than not as a layering piece, often with a hint of their lace or edging intentionally showing around my neckline.

Most camisoles are very comfortable, weigh next to nothing, provide added modesty/coverage, and are fairly easy to put on, so long as you're to raise your arms above your shoulders. Vintage camisoles from the 20-50s are relatively easy to find, however many modern day styles do a great job of being thoroughly vintage appropriate as well and can blend in seamlessly with your older garments.

~ Wraps/stoles ~

 

{Ivory mink faux fur stole wrap; size fits up to a large. Available from etsy seller Old Into New Couture.}

Whenever you're in the mood to channel your inner glamour girl - or go full on diva - a wrap or stole is one of the quickest and most effective ways to do just that. Generally free of sleeves and (often) fasteners, these long, continuous pieces of fabric/fur/faux fur look beautiful wrapped around your arms and torso as a means of helping to keep cold weather at bay and look pin-up girl stylish at the same time.

Vintage wraps and stoles (especially velvet and fur ones) are not too tricky to come by, though they can sometimes fetch a pretty penny. Thankfully plenty of modern sellers offer timeless stoles and wraps that any old school Hollywood starlet would have been delighted to wear.

If you're looking for wraps in classic colours and cuts, check formal and bridal wear shops in your area, as most carry such garments or can easily bring them in for you.

~ Crinolines/pettiskirts ~

{White net petticoat crinoline; one size fit all, 27" length. Available for £40.00 for UK seller 20th Century Foxy.}

At first you might not think that crinolines would have made it onto a list like this, yet I've found that they are in fact one of the easiest, most comfortable (if you find the material of your crinoline be a bit scratchy, try wearing a slip or pair of stockings underneath to create a layer between the crinoline and your skin), and quickest ways I know of to inject a huge hit of 1950s style into an outfit.

Most crinolines (be they vintage or modern) have elasticized waists that allow for easy of movement and also possible fluctuations in body weight, and are also relatively light (we're not talking old-fashioned hop skirts here, just airy yards of tulle and/or chiffon).

I tend to like crinolines with a moderate/medium amount of poof to them, and which fall in the 26" to 28" range (if you're taller or shorter than me however, you may want to look for ones that are in turn a little longer or shorter in length). Often times I'll partner one of my crinis with a fuller skirted shirtwaist dress and a cardigan for an instant 1950s look that is wonderfully versatile (and comfortable) all year long.

~ Slip-on Flats ~

{Vintage Schiaparelli pastel pink leather ballet flats; shoe size 5 1/2. Available from etsy seller Magical Bee.}

Whether you pair them with cigarette pants, breezy sundresses, circle skirts, or sailor shorts, there's no limit to ways you can have fun with classic ballet inspired flats. Not only are they stylish, but slip-on flats are one of the easiest shoes to wear when walking or standing for long periods of time.

While it can sometimes take a little work to find a pair of flats that fit you to a tee, when you do, they're s comfy as a glove. In fact, I adore one pair of my (cotton, flexible soled) flats so much that when I need to pack a bag for an overnight hospital stay, I take them with me instead of slippers.

Be they vintage (1950s versions abound thanks to the rise in popularity this style of shoe saw after stars like Audrey Hepburn started wearing them on screen) or modern, flats are easy to find in all manner of price points, colours, and styles. From classic black to alluring leopard print, flats remain one of the best and most accommodating footwear choices I've ever encountered.

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Many years ago, as soon as I knew that my health had taken a nose dive for which (baring cures being found for various conditions) I would never be able to pull back up from again, I vowed that I would not let my love of vintage fashion take a back seat to my medical problems.

Through trial and error, alterations, and with plenty of determination, I've been able to find a myriad of fantastic garments, accessories, and shoes that work for my own set of health parameters. Was it always easy? No, not at all, but even the most uncomfortable garment that I experimented with was still fun in a sense, because it helped fuel my sartorial fires and made me glad that I was keeping my passion for wearing vintage clothing going strong.

Over time, like most of us yesteryear loving folks, I've sourced wardrobe items from second hand shops, thrift and consignments stores; department, big box, boutique and specialty shops, as well as many pieces from online sources (especially etsy).

When I've been uncertain as to if a garment or pair of shoes would work for me once I got home and actually tried it/them on (or when my order arrived in the mail), I've verified about the store/seller's return policy beforehand and only purchased when I was comfortable with said policy.

Not only does the internet allow one to shop from the comfort of home, aside from teaming with vintage/reproduction clothing sellers, it is also a superb place to find sites that specialize in providing adaptive/hospital patient/nursing home/post surgical/home care/disabled/special needs clothing and footwear.

Though the garments on such sites are typically modern in styling, amongst their offerings you can often find classic staples like tailored blouses, camisoles and undergarments, comfy yet elegant footwear, and perpetually appealing outerwear.

Another important clothing option that more than merits mentioning is that of sewing your own garments. This is an avenue which I've not really ventured down yet, however if circumstances permit, I would like to do so one day.

Not everyone is physically able to sew their own clothing, yet some individuals with chronic health/special needs are, and if you fall into that camp, then you may find that tailoring a garment to your measurements and requirements right off the bat makes putting together your wardrobe considerably easier and less stressful.

If you're not able to (or have no desire to) sew yourself, another option is to commission someone else with the appropriate sewing skills to make garments (such as one created from a vintage sewing pattern) for you. If you're extra lucky, you might even have a talented sewer in the family who's willing and able to create clothing for you for free or at cost. Don't be shy to ask if you think such is the case, you'll never know unless you do.

It is my profound hope that this article will be of help and inspiration to many others out there like myself who both love vintage clothing and who are facing ongoing health problems that impact the wardrobe choices you make.

I welcome your questions and thoughts on this topic, whether in the comment section of this post or privately by email, and would absolutely love to know about the vintage/repro/vintage appropriate garments that you've found work best for you and your own health considerations.

From one chronically ill vintage fashionista to all others out there, remember, you are not alone and that you can always find a way to be as stylish as your heart desires!  ♥