A beginner’s guide to buying and wearing vintage appropriate clothes

A couple of months ago in a comment left on one of my vintage outfit posts (this cute 1950s novelty print skirt to be exact), a lovely reader named Dolly asked, “Have you ever written a post on how to shop for modern clothes and make them look vintage?"


The short answer is, no, I haven't. Not until today that is! While the subject of shopping for vintage appropriate modern pieces is certainly something that I've touched on in numerous posts over the years, to the best of my recollection, I haven't devoted a piece solely to the topic of how to select modern clothes that have a distinctly vintage vibe to them.

As I love answering your questions and helping others embark on their own vintage wearing journeys (which is what our lovely question asker Dolly is doing), today, before we really get into the thick of the holiday season, I wanted to take a stab at tackling this excellent query.

This however, is not a cut and dry topic, and I'm sure that there are many different opinions on this interesting point (which of course you're encouraged to share in the comment section). As such, I'm going to tell you how I shop for vintage appropriate modern pieces and provide some tips that I believe can benefit anyone who wants to, or already enjoys doing, the same.




{A summery gingham example of an outfit, which like many I wear, combines vintage and modern vintage appropriate pieces together. For the exact outfit details – including which pieces are new and which are vintage – see the original post from last Canada Day.}


While many of us have been wearing vintage for years or even decades, and shopping for pieces (be they vintage, reproduction, or modern) that fit our personal styles has become second nature, it's important not to forget that there are lots of folks out there who are just starting to get into vintage, who may need some guidance, or who are are looking for a bit of a refresher course if they've been away from the vintage scene for a while.

This post was written with these categories of people in mind, but the suggestions and advice offered herein certainly apply to everyone who enjoys wearing vintage styles.


Determining what decade or decades you want to emulate


First of all, if you're just starting out with wearing vintage, it can help to have one or more specific decades in mind that you want to emulate the looks of. I, as many of you know, wear fashions from the 1940s and 50s, two decades which are very popular amongst vintage clothing fans. However, you may feel your passion lies in the roaring twenties, swinging sixties, or any other twentieth century decade (for the sake of this post, we'll assume you're picking a decade from the last century).

Often times vintage fans enjoy wearing styles from multiple decades, and many of us tend to be drawn to two (or more) decades that touch one another, such as the 20s and 30s, 30s and 40s, 40s and 50s, or 50s and 60s. Others however, enjoy sporting fashions from a wide range of periods, and may mix fashions from different decades in the same outfit, or stick to one decade per ensemble.

The choice is completely up to you, and while some people are steadfast devotes to a certain era, crafting their whole wardrobes around the years they love best (which there is absolutely nothing wrong with in the least - it takes a lot of work, knowledge and dedication to commit to one distinct period/look all the time), you may find that you'd prefer to sport styles from various decades in the same outfit.

Today however, we're going to assume that you're interested in wearing clothes that are appropriate to one decade (or small group of years that shared similar fashions, such as the late 40s into the early 50s) per outfit, and that you already know what decade (or decades) it is that you're passionate about.

Chances are, even if you're a complete greenhorn when it comes to wearing vintage, you have a general sense of the fashions that are associated with each decade of the twentieth century and probably feel like one or more of those time periods are calling your name.

However, just as enjoying food doesn't automatically make you a skilled cook, so too does take research and time to hone your ability to pinpoint styles from certain eras and to develop a sense of how to put together a period appropriate look and how to date pieces (this doesn't mean you take you clothes out for dinner and movie, instead "dating clothes" means that you have the knowledge to look at a piece and know when, give or take a few years at most, it was most likely originally created and in fashion).

This is a topic that really is a post (if not a whole book!) unto itself, but for those who are looking to better study and understand the fashions of certain various decades, I highly recommend checking out the images on sites such as Wikipedia, Flickr, Pinterst (I have Pinterst boards devoted to all the eras of the twentieth century, as there are tons of other Pinterest users with historically related boards there, too), Tumblr, the Life Magazie achieves, The Costume Gallery, Glamour Daze, Fashion Era, other vintage fashion related blogs (you'll find lots on my blog links page), and videos on Youtube.

In addition, knowledge and inspiration can be gained from a great many books (modern and vintage), yesteryear magazines, movies, sewing pattern sleeve art, and of course old photographs.


Getting started & examples of timeless wardrobe choices

Let’s assume that you have a favourite decade and you want to wear the looks of that time frame. No doubt you'll be interested in sporting genuine vintage pieces, however these can sometimes be expensive, hard to find in certain sizes, and tricky to track down in person (especially if you live in a small town).

Online vintage shopping is a terrific option, and one I avail often myself, but there are times when you may want to shop in person, and/or really need to keep your budget in mind (vintage bargains can be had online, especially if you're patient, just as they can off line at thrift stores, yard sales, flea markets, car boot sales, op shops, etc sometimes, don't get me wrong).

Or you may want to turn to your favourite modern online clothing sites to find vintage appropriate pieces. In either case, there are things that can help make finding period appropriate garments easier.

For starters, there are certain garments that, while they may have changed a bit over the years as styles have involved, remain absolutely true classics. It is wise, no matter the era(s) you enjoy wearing most, to build your wardrobe, at least in part, around these kinds of basics. While by no means a complete list, some pieces that are often viewed as timeless wardrobe staples are as follows:

{Apt. 9 Essential Solid Blouse in white, $24.99, from Kohl’s.}

-Well tailored button front blouses (often in white, neutrals and various solid hues hues). Look for blouses that are either extremely basic and timeless in their design (like the example above) or which include vintage-y details, such as peter pan collars, interesting sleeve details, bows or ruffles.

{Rachel Zoe Tie-Neck Blouse, $103.00, Neiman Marcus.}

-Tie neck (aka, pussy bow) blouses. A look standing classic amongst stylish lasses, this beloved style of blouse can work for looks from many decades, assuming you find one in a cut, colour, fabric and pattern (if applicable) that calls to mind the era you’re dressing in the style of.

{Fly and By Cardigan, $57.99, ModCloth.}

-Lightweight knits, including cardigans and sweaters (for more on the subject of lightweight knits, and plenty of examples - both vintage and vintage appropriate - of them, be sure to check out this post I wrote about them back in 2009).

{Satin Open Front Shrug, $59.95, Le Chateau.}

-Shrugs and bolero jackets. Look for styles that channel a mid-century vibe in knits, satin, silk, cotton, and tweed.

{Viola, Senorita Skirt, $74.99, ModCloth.}

-Pencil skirts  in a solid colours (black, brown, navy, and grey in particular are excellent options as they can easily be paired with vintage blazers/jackets for a suit look or worn with tops, blouses, sweaters, and cardigans on their own), in lengths that hit at or anywhere below the knee.

{Alfani Belted A-Line Skirt, $73.00, Macy’s.}

-A-line Skirts (same general criteria as for pencil skirts)

{High Waisted Thrills Skirt, $49.00, Plasticland.}

-Circle Skirts (again, same general criteria as for a-line and pencil skirts).

{Classic Shirtdress, $99.99, J. Crew.}

-Shirtwaist dresses. Look for styles that hit just below the knee or longer, with crisp collars and classic detailing.

{MICHAEL Michael Kors Peplum Peasant Blouse, $54.00, Nordstrom.}

-Peasant style tops (all the better if it’s at least semi-fitted, though a bit of blousing is often part and parcel with this charming style of top).

{Ralph Lauren Cotton Twill Sailor Pants, (currently on sale for) $29.84, Lord & Taylor.}

-High-waisted trousers and jeans (prior to the 1960s, it was uncommon for women's pants, jeans or shorts to hit below the navel).

{Foxfield tweed jacket, $129.99, Coldwater Creek.}

-Tweed blazers, jackets and coats in classic weaves and neutral hues (tweed jackets look so smart with with vintage skirts for the colder months).

{Prim the Know Coat, $109.99, ModCloth.}

-Timelessly tailored winter coats in fabrics such as wool, felt, cashmere, Persian lamb, and camel hair.

{DKNY Diamond Stitch Double Breasted Trench, $143.00, Zappos.}

-Classic (belted) trench coats (camel, beige, and black are good colour choices).

{Black Calfskin Belt with Antiqued Brass Hardware, $48.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Black and neutral hued belts (often) with understated buckles and detailing.

{Black Patent Bowling Bag Purse, $69.99, Mango.}

-A small to medium sized leather, patent leather, faux leather, vinyl, silk, or sturdy cotton handbag in black, brown, camel, navy, grey, or another dark neutral (burgundy and hunter/pine green can both be surprisingly versatile shades) with minimal hardware and very classic lines.

{Black cashmere-Lined Lambskin Gloves, $138.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Solid coloured, classically tailored leather (or faux leather) gloves.

{17” 8mm Glass Pearl Necklace with Deco Clasp, $198.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Single stands of pearls, pearl bracelets, and pearl stud earrings. Pearls exude elegance and beauty, and are as timeless – and vintage appropriate – as the sky is blue.

{Eastland Classic II Penny Loafer Shoes, $53.00, Sierra Trading Post.}

-Brown or black penny loafers.

{Frye Delia Saddle Shoes, $110.99, Zappos.}

-Traditionally styled saddle shoes and buck shoes.

{Nine West Ambitious black pumps, $68.95, Zappos.}

-Basic pumps (court shoes) in black, navy, white, brown, red, and other versatile colours (or for an extra jolt of alluring style, opt for leopard print).

{4 inch leopard print peep toe heels, $45.97, Amazon.}

-Peep-toe heels (all the cuter if they have bows or rosettes on the vamp).


Now, of course there are examples of all of these garments that work better for certain decades than others (and, by the same token, versions that are wholeheartedly modern to the point where they really couldn't be styled so as to look like a piece from an early era), but as a general rule, these are amongst the most timeless pieces any woman can have in her vintage appropriate wardrobe.


Things to keep in mind when shopping for vintage appropriate fashions

When looking at a modern piece and trying to size up if it's going to work with your vintage wardrobe, here are some things that you’ll want to keep at the forefront of your mind.


-Fabric: What material is the garment made out of? Is the material one that would have been around during the decade you love or which looks very much like it could have been? Is the pattern and/or colour appropriate for your time frame of choice? Is the weight of the garment in keeping with the period? Are there any embellishments (buttons, zippers, frogs, sequins, beading, embroidery, ties, etc) on the material/garment and if so, do they lend to, or detract from, the vintage feel of the piece?


-Colour: Though it's easy to think back to the past and see the world through largely a black and white lens, the reality is that many vintage garments were loaded with colours of all types, from whisper soft pastels to blazing bright, and everything in between. Though you'd not likely have found a highlighter yellow flapper's dress, you could have encountered one in rust, jade green, crimson, teal, or silver, for example.

Certain colours are generally associated with each decade, and as your knowledge of your favourite eras deepens, you'll soon come to recognize the hues that really tie into your decade of choice.

Though there's definitely some wiggle room when it comes to colours, generally speaking, the more you opt for colours that were appropriate (or best suited to) a certain period, the more likely a garment or accessory may be to have a wonderful vintage appropriate feel to it. One great way to quickly get a feel for the colours that were worn during a certain time frame is to look at old (colour) catalogs and magazines from that time, as well as colour movies (if applicable).



-Lines: Whether from memory or while looking at images from that era (or your favourite bloggers wearing their vintage threads from that time period), look at the lines of a garment and see if the tailoring is similar (or virtually identical, as the case may be) to the decade(s) you're interested in. If it is, this is often a key point in helping to determine if a piece may work for your vintage look.


-Construction: When you look at a piece (or better yet, when possible, hold it in your hands) does it appear (or feel) well made? While shoddy clothes have been around for eons, many vintage pieces, even at lower price points were well made and designed to stand up to years of wear. Check seams, hems, button holes, zippers, and other potentially weak (in terms of construction/risk of damage) points on a piece, even if it's brand new, to make sure that this is a quality garment.


-Overall appearance: There have been times when I've been out shopping and instantly been struck by how very much a modern piece looked like it could have just hopped through the time space continuum and landed here from another era. In fact, I had this happen to me while in a consignment store a couple of months ago with a black dress that, though thoroughly modern, looked incredibly like like many black dresses I've seen over the years from the 1920s.

If a garment strikes you as clearly looking like its from a certain era, that's perhaps the best element to try and find when shopping for modern pieces that have a definite vintage vibe to them. Look at the waistline, sleeve length, hem length, garment construction, embellishments, and material, if these stack up and meet the grade, you likely have a winner on your hands.


-Size: Beyond merely aiming to buy garments that are the right size for your body shape and height, is the the size of the garment in keeping with the proportions that a piece from your decade(s) of choice would have originally have been?

While women sometimes donned men's clothes to intentionally get a baggy look in the 40s and 50s (in particular), often times ladieswear was form fitting and meant to hit at certain spots on the body. Slouchy, excessively baggy, overly tight, hugely oversized, or strangled portioned (e.g., the high front, low back skirts that were all the range last year) pieces are not very likely to look vintage appropriate (with the exception of a few garments, such as swing coats, that are supposed are supposed to fit large and loose).


-Length: Much like size, length is another important factor when it comes to your vintage appropriate garments. With exceptions made for shorts, beach wear, and certain 20s dresses, few skirts and dresses prior to the 1960s hit above a woman's knees. Look at the length and proportions of a garment and ask yourself, objectively, if it really does look like it could have just hopped out of the 30s, 40s, or 50s.

If the answer is "no", this may not be a deal breaker, but you have to think, right then and there, about if there's anyway it can still work. Sometimes alteration can help, other times all a piece may need is to be tucked in (for example, longer shirts and sweaters tucked into high-waisted jeans and trousers often lend them a wonderful 1940s feel), and others still you may have to pass, because length (and heel height, while we're on the subject of length) can easily make or break the vintage appropriate-ness of a garment.


-Alteration-ability: Not a real word, I know, but a real concept for sure. By alteration-ability, I mean, if you look at a piece and it strikes you as being relatively vintage appropriate, is there anything that can be added, removed, or altered to make it appear even more so?

For example, could the buttons be swapped with vintage or more classically styled ones on a blouse or coat to instantly lend it a great 40s feel, or could you remove the lime green fur collar from a black 1990s winter coat to make it seem more like a classic 30s winter topper? If this kind of alteration is something you can do yourself or can afford to have done professionally, then it may be worth getting the garment and having it altered.


-Layer-ability: Again, a homemade term, with practical real world application. Sometimes you'll find a piece that is vintage looking in some respects, but not so much in others. Case in point, certain camisoles, blouses, and dresses. In such instances, clever layering may be all it needs to help a modern piece suddenly look like it hopped out of the tumultuous thirties or fabulous fifties.

Look for necklines, cuffs, collars, and hems with vintage appeal and see if layering a vintage (or vintage appropriate) piece (or pieces) over the not-so-vintage parts of a garment helps it to take on an old school appeal. If a piece is well priced and is able to do so, it may be worth picking up, especially for the colder months when layers are often a must.


Sourcing vintage appropriate modern pieces

I've said it before, but I'll say it again, no matter where I go, I always (always!) keep my eyes peeled for vintage appropriate fashions. While certain stores and locations (e.g., yard sales and flea markets) will obviously lend themselves more to finding such pieces, anywhere that sells clothing has the potential to offer up a piece that may work for you.

I've found 50s looking sweaters in the clothing section at grocery stores, 40s appropriate skirts in trendy teenybopper shops, shrug sweaters in avant garde modern boutiques, lucite/Bakelite looking plastic bangles at the dollar store, and rayon scarves that look like they could have been made seventy years ago at the local drug store.

Train your eye to constantly scan your surroundings and to look for tell-tale signs (certain colours, lines, hem lengths, fabrics, etc) of a piece that will work for your wardrobe.

Odd as it may sound in relationship to vintage clothing, it can also help to keep an eye on modern trends. Fashion is incredibly cyclical and designers often look to the past for inspiration when crafting their present day collections. Though most of-the-moment pieces will likely not work that well for mid-century looks, there’s usually at least one trend each season that pulls so heavily from the past (case in point, the resurgence of peplums this year) that may suddenly provide you with a wealth of garments that could work for your vintage look.

You don't need to buy new to get a vintage look either, be sure to check out local thrift, charity, second hand, and consignment stores, as well as yard sales, flea markets, rummage sales, swap meets, auctions, and estate sales for modern pieces that channel the era you're after. By the same token, falling somewhere between vintage and modern, are pieces from more recent decades (the 1970s-2000s) which may have the look of the era your after.

When shopping online, such garments are sometimes listed with titles such as "1980s does 1940s black cocktail dress" or "1970s does 1930s wide brimmed hat". These pieces can often provide a more budget-friendly version of garments from your favourite decade for a fraction of the cost of an actual (earlier) vintage piece.

Online shopping is a great way to find vintage appropriate clothing (as well, of course, of vintage reproduction clothes, too), as there are literally thousands of online clothing sellers around the world.

Some of my favourite sources (be it for visual inspiration and/or actual purchasing) for vintage appropriate pieces are the fifteen that follow (as well as the others mentioned in the wardrobe basics examples earlier in this post):


-American Eagle Outfitters

-Anthropologie

-Banana Republic

-Brooks Brothers

-Cath Kidston

-Coldwater Creak

-Forever 21 (yes, you have to weed through tones of modern/trendy pieces, but whether online or in person, I almost always find at least one great vintage appropriate piece when I shop at Forever 21)

-H&M

-ModCloth

-Old Navy (I've gotten a lot of great thin knits, such as the cardigan I'm wearing here, from Old Navy over the years)

-Plasticland

-Ralph Lauren

-Reitmans

-Sears (I've found some really nice vintage appropriate blouses, sweaters, cardigans, and shoes there over the years)

-Talbots

-Target


That little something extra

Earlier in this post we talked about altering and/or layering a modern piece to give it more of a vintage feel, by the same token you can sometimes use accessories to inject more of a period appropriate quality to a garment. Some examples that can help in this regard are vintage jewelry and hats, classic belts, vintage scarves, detachable collars and/or cuffs, lady ties (such as those sold by etsy seller Flapper Girl), vintage or vintage appropriate shoes, and classic coats.

However, just as the old expression states that you can't get blood from a stone, so too are there times when, no matter how much you like a garment, accessory or pair of shoes, if you have to face the fact that it's not going to work for your chosen decade.

Of course you can still buy it to wear at other times, if you'd like, but, again, don't try and force a square peg into a round hole. Instead, look at the garment (or accessory) and determine what you like most about it (colour, fabric, pattern, cut, etc) and then see if you can find an actual vintage or other vintage appropriate piece that incorporates that quality, but is more in keeping with the styles of your favourite decade.

Always try to keep in mind that vintage styling isn't just about the clothes, important and integral as they are to any period appropriate look. If you're aiming to really recreate the exact styles of a certain decade, it helps a great deal to ensure that your hair and make-up (as well as your accessories and shoes) are in keeping with those styles that were in use at time.

One could argue that this rings even more true if you're using modern pieces to appropriate a vintage outfit, instead of sporting actual vintage garments. In either case though, hair and make-up can go a long way towards helping you create the fabulous yesteryear look you're after.


What it all boils down to

Though I know that some vintage clothing fans out there only wear genuine vintage pieces, I'd venture to say that a good percentage of us incorporate some combination of reproduction, handmade, and/or vintage appropriate pieces into our wardrobes in conjunction with our vintage garments. Those just starting out in the vintage fashion world, may even be basing their whole old school inspired wardrobe on such pieces.

As the years roll on and vintage prices most likely continue to rise, while at the same time the available amount of vintage clothing dwindles, likely more and more of us will turn to (or continue to buy) modern pieces that we can convincingly put to use in our everyday wardrobes.

Knowledge of the decades you enjoy wearing most, common sense, and the tips in this post should help steer you in the right direction when it comes to, as Dolly asked, shopping for modern clothes that you can effectively, beautifully use in your day-to-day vintage looks.

Have fun, enjoy shopping online and off, and feel free to share snaps here anytime you put together a great vintage appropriate outfit.